Starting Seeds

It?s easy to start plants from seed. Just follow a few guidelines. A seed is nothing more than an envelope surrounding a dormant living plant inside. All you have to do is to provide favorable growing conditions, so that nature can release all of its magic to create a beautiful plant. To germinate; seeds need the proper amount of warmth, moisture, light and air. Seeds can be started either directly in the garden, indoors under lights, or on a bright window sill. Starting seeds indoors gives them a head start in the garden and allows plants to develop to full maturity before fall frost. In so doing, we can enjoy our plants for a longer period of time.

Get Ready to Start Your Seeding

A good germinating mixture should be very light, porous and sterile, free of insects, disease and weed seeds. We suggest a seeding mix which contains peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. This uniform mixture doesn?t compact and keeps temperatures even throughout the container. The seeding mix also provides for the proper balance of air and moisture necessary for fast root development. Young seedlings must not dry out or they will die. However, too much water will rob the seedling roots of air, resulting in suffocation. A good rule of this is to tumble the mixture in a bag, adding water ? a little at a time until it is damp. Give a handful of the mixture a firm squeeze. Water should NOT squeeze out. It?s now ready to use.

Containers

Containers for growing seeds should be sterile, 2-3? deep and provide adequate drainage. Deeper containers should have a coarse drainage material in the bottom. Plastic pots for trays, fibre trays, peat pots and Jiffy 7?s are all suitable containers. Both peat pots and Jiffy 7?s can be planter either pot-and-all into a larger pot or directly into the garden after frost danger. Seedlings grown in individual plastic pots are easily transplanted into the garden without transplant shock. We recommend starting several seeds in a small flat first. Try our seeding trays! These trays make it easy to separate varieties and control watering. When several plants are grown in one container, roots are damaged when the plants are torn apart for planting outside. These plants take several days to recover from transplanting.

Seeds

Always use fresh seeds. The germination percentage is much higher. Using old seed is false economy and only results in disappointment. Seeds kept from garden plants will not grow true-to-form if the variety was hybrid. (Most seeds offered to home gardeners are now hybrids.)

Sowing the Seeds

Fill the tray or pot to the top with moist seeding mix. Press down gently to remove air pockets and top off again with dry seed mix. We suggest seeding in rows. Make rows or grooves 1/8? (3mm) deep and about 2? apart using the flat edge of a ruler. Seed larger seeds in the grooves formed. For very tiny seeds such as petunias, lobelia, and wax begonias, seed right on top without grooves. Space seeds thinly 1/8? apart to allow room for plant development. If planting in pots, place 2-3 seeds per pot in case some don?t germinate. Seeds should not be covered too deeply. Carefully sift or shake some dry seed mix over the seeds. A good rule of thumb is to cover the seeds evenly by twice their own thickness. NO DEEPER. Tiny seeds such as lobelia or begonias need little to no cover. Moisten the surface gently with a light spray misting. To maintain humidity and prevent drying out during germination, cover the seed flats with clear plastic or use our special seeding tray covers. DO NOT allow plastic to contact the seed bed. Place containers in a warm, 21?C (70?F) bright location. Bottom heat improves germination. This can be achieved with a heat mat or by placing seed trays over a heat source such as a hot water heat radiator. Avoid strong drafts that might dry out the seed bed. If growing under lights, lower the lights so that they are 16? above the containers. Label each variety with name and date of seeding. As soon as the seeds show their first signs of growth, any plastic covers MUST be removed. When growth is evident, move the plants to a cooler location, 18?C (60-65?F) and into brighter light. Cooler air and good air movement reduces the risk of damping-off (collapse of young seedlings) and develops stronger plants. Water between the rows of seedlings keeping water off the plants.

Transplanting

When?

Plants are ready for transplanting once they develop their third or fourth true leaf. Transplanting too early results in a high rate of loss. Plants left too long in the seed flat do not recover from transplant shock as easily and growth is retarded.

Containers

A variety of containers are suitable for transplanting. They should be clean and provide good drainage. We suggest planting either in pots or cell-packs so each plant has its own roots separate from the others. This keeps transplanting shock to a minimum when planting in the garden.

Soil Mix

Seedlings should be transplanted into the soil mix. When separating them from each other in the seed flat be careful not to tear the roots. We suggest the following mix: 1 part good garden loam soil, 1 part peat moss, and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. This mixture allows a good balance between air spaces in the soil and moisture retention. Seedlings can also be planted into soil-less mixes (ie. Seeding mix), however plants will need more care in watering and fertilization.

Watering

Water lightly immediately after transplanting. In the first few days after transplanting, the plant roots are relatively small in relation to the size of the container. Therefore, watering should be less frequent. As the plant grows larger, more water will be needed. Water early in the day to reduce wetness of the plants overnight. Over watering may cause diseases such as mould or ?damping-of? (see Problem Solving section).

Light

Immediately after transplanting, plants should be given indirect light but sheltered from strong light to help the plants recover. After a day or two, good bright light is necessary to ensure good plant growth. A bright sunny window sill is good. Twelve to fourteen hours of fluorescent lights is a suitable substitute for natural light.

Temperature

Cooler temperatures; 18?C (60-65?F) once the plants are transplanted help to keep the plants stronger, shorter and more compact. Cooler temperatures for ?growing on? help plants adjust better when set outside.

Timing

Seeding and transplanting should be done so that plants are sturdy and stalky when they are ready to be set out in the garden. Very large or tall spindly plants do not transplant well. Weeding dates vary from variety to variety. Use our seeding schedule as a guide. Keep accurate records from year to year. They will help determine what timing is best for your particular situation.

Fertilizing

Newly germinated seedling need little or no fertilizer. As seedlings develop, fertilizer may be necessary to maintain healthy growth. Water soluble fertilizers are best for transplanted seedlings. An all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20 works well in a very mild dilutions as a constant feed program (every day watering), or feed at regular rates every one to two weeks. Follow package label directions. When transplanting, use a plant start fertilizer such as 5-15-5 for fast establishment of roots. Remember when seedlings are young they don?t require as much feeding as when they mature. Adjust your fertilizer accordingly. A fertilizer such as RX-15 (15-30-15) or a Flower, Shrub and vegetable food (12-18-9) may be preferred later on to help promote blossoms and fruit.

Problem Solving

Slow Germination

  • Soil too dry; there isn?t enough moisture to allow growth to start.
  • Soil too wet; seeds either rot first or roots rot later.
  • Temperature too cool; most seeds germinate better at warmer temperature.
  • Seed covered too deeply; more time is required to ?push? through

Patchy Germination

  • Check seasons for slow germination above.
  • Some seeds require special conditions to germinate eg. Verbena needs darkness and Forget-me-nots ?cooler temperatures - 12?C (55?F)

Spindly or Leggy Plants

  • Seeds are sown too thickly, plants reach higher and higher as they compete with one another.
  • Temperatures too warm, plants grow too quickly and growth becomes soft and leggy. Grow plants at 16?C (60?F) nights and 21?C (70?F) days.
  • Low lights, plants are reaching for any available light. Move to a brighter window or increase intensity of artificial light.

Plants Wither and Die after Germination

This is a fungus disease called ?Damping-off? which attacks the stem right at the soil surface causing total collapse of the plant.

  • All unsterilized soil contains Damping-off disease. Use only sterilized soil our special soil-less seeding mix.
  • Unclean containers, materials, and tools (including hands). Always thoroughly clean all containers and tools.
  • Temperatures too high; growth is soft and disease is more likely.
  • Temperatures too cool; damping-off disease thrives in cool, damp conditions.
  • Soil too wet; let soil dry between watering. Water between the rows of seedlings keeping water off the plants.
  • Poor air circulation; closed containers or areas without some air movement should be avoided.
  • Diseases can be carried on seeds themselves. NOTE: Always use fresh seeds. A light application of ?no damp? as a preventative disinfectant is recommended with the first watering at the time of seeding. This will help reduce the risk of Damping-off.

Wilted or Unhealthy looking Plants

Seedlings need very little fertilizer until they are up and growing. They have enough food stored inside their seed coats. When young, seedling roots are very sensitive and are easily burned by excess fertilizer. During the seedling stage, use fertilizer sparingly and only when deficiency symptoms occur. Always follow container recommendations for diluting fertilizer carefully.

On to the Garden

The reward for the effort in starting your own seeds comes once the danger of frost has passed and your healthy plants can be planted in the garden.? Little care when transplanting in the garden can ensure success. Proper spacing (See chart) ensures a good colour show or high vegetable harvests without overcrowding. A loos, well-drained soil provides good growing conditions. Soil amendments such as peat moss and sheep or cow manure help to keep soil loose, hold moisture and allow good drainage. Use a plant starter plant food (5-15-5) or Bonemeal when transplanting into the garden. Nature?s magic starts to unfold as those green plants burst into colour or produce rich harvests for fruits and vegetables.

Information chart for annuals

Name

Seed Date Indoors

Mature Height

Space Apart

Location

Seed Date Outdoors

Ageratum

Mar 15

10?

8?

Part Shade

May 15

Alyssum

May 1

3?

10?

Either

May 15

Asters

Apr 15

10?

10-18?

Sun

May 15

Begonias

Feb 1

12?

12?

Shade

May 15

Celosia

Mar 30

15?

10?

Sun

May 30

Coleus

Mar 1

12?

12?

Either

May 30

Dahlia

Mar 15

10?

10?

Sun

May 30

Dianthus

Mar 15

10?

10?

Sun

May 15

Geranium

Feb 1

18?

18?

Sun

May 15

Impatiens

Feb 20

18?

12?

Either

May 15

Marigolds

Apr 15

6-36?

8-12?

Sun

May 30

Nicotiana

April 30

12-30?

12?

Either

May 30

Pansy

Feb 15

10?

10?

Either

Apr 15

Petunia (dbl)

Feb 15

12?

12?

Sun

Apr 15

Petunia (Sing)

Apr 10

2?

12?

Sun

May 30

Phlox

Apr 15

10-20?

10?

Sun

May 15

Portulaca

Apr 1

3?

8?

Sun

May 30

Salvia

Apr 1

12-24?

12?

Sun

May 30

Snapdragon

Apr 15

10-30?

10?

Sun

May 15

Zinnia

Apr 15

10-30?

12?

Sun

May 30

?

Information Chart for Vegetables seeded Indoors

Vegetable

Seed Date Indoor

Mature Height

Spacing

Transplant Date

Asparagus

Mar 15

12?

2-3?

May 10

Broccoli

Apr 10

10-12?

3?

May 15

Brussel Sprouts

Apr 10

12?

3?

May 15

Cabbage (early)

Apr 10

18?

3?

May 15

Cabbage (late)

Apr 10

18?

3?

May 15

Cauliflower

Apr 10

18?

24?

May 15

Celery

Apr 10

10?

24?

May 24

Chives

Apr 1

12?

24?

May 1

Onion

Apr 1

1-2?

12?

May 1

Pepper

Mar 30

12?

2?

June 1

Tomato

Apr 1

2?

3?

June 1

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